The Art of Inlay Work Among Native Americans

At HARPO, we are committed to offering you the best in Native American jewelry. Native American techniques are rich and require exceptional skill.  

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Among Native American tribes, the Zuni are particularly renowned for having developed an ancestral technique that has become iconic: inlay, or marquetry. It is also referred to as “needle point,” in reference to the extreme delicacy of the work.

Their signature? Tiny semi-precious stones—turquoise, coral, jet, mother-of-pearl—cut with incredible precision, then assembled like a mosaic to create jewelry of rare delicacy.

Each piece is a distillation of expertise, and Zuni jewelry remains among the rarest and most sought-after in the American Southwest. An exceptional craft, passed down from generation to generation.

Treasures at Harpo Paris  

This process brings to life jewelry of rare finesse. Each piece is a work of art, crafted by hand, reflecting the talent and vision of the artist. An ancestral technique emblematic of Zuni expertise in fine jewelry.

Inlay jewelry available at Harpo

At HARPO, we love jewelry that tells a story. Inlay is the art of composing, with patience and precision, veritable mosaics of stone. Turquoise, coral, mother-of-pearl, and onyx are placed, one by one, in silver to create unique and exceptional pieces.

Rings, bracelets, earrings, pendants: marquetry comes in all shapes and colors. Some designs are geometric, others more figurative, but all share the same attention to detail and sense of beauty.

The choice of style is yours: a silver pearl necklace with a shiny or matte finish to accompany a marquetry pendant? The sparkle can be tailored to your desires.

Finally, HARPO's iconic 4-element belt buckles (Ranger belt buckles) are also beautiful pieces of marquetry. These belt buckles are representative of beautiful marquetry work known as “channel inlay.” They are always made with great attention to detail, using turquoise or other stones and shells separated by thin silver bars. 

The most important thing is to have fun and love what you wear (how could you not love Harpo jewelry? I don't know!).

A technique that has spread across different peoples.

Did you know?

Many Navajos are skilled in the art of marquetry. Of course, it differs from that of the Zunis, but at Harpo, you will find many Navajo artists who have also created beautiful pieces using marquetry.

A historical note to understand the origins

The Navajos excel in the art of working with silver, but also with precious stones—especially turquoise, which is so dear to us. In addition to creating magnificent jewelry, Navajo artists have passed on their mastery of metal to the Zunis.

Many books mention that in the 19th century, it was the Navajos who taught the Zunis how to work with metal. For marquetry, it was the other way around: the Zunis passed on their expertise to the Navajos.

This beautiful exchange shows how the tribes shared, adapted, and enriched their techniques over time.

Let us guide you...

In our selection, you will find numerous marquetry pieces crafted by Navajo artisans with unique expertise. Prepare to be amazed by their creativity, precision, and modernity!

A signature that speaks volumes...

According to Harpo, the leader of our kingdom, you can sometimes tell if a piece of jewelry was made by a Navajo or Zuni artist by looking at the signature. But you can also tell by observing the choice of stones and colors, which often differ from one tribe to another.

Techniques that will drive you crazy:

Picture : Screenshot of the famous « Joe & Angie Reano » captured in the video: Santo Doming mosaic inlay “Joe & Angie Reano” making jewelry

Inlay work looks simple when you look at a beautiful Zuni or Navajo piece... But behind every piece of jewelry, there is real craftsmanship—sometimes extremely technical.

At Harpo, we have always worked with artists who have mastered the art of inlay like no one else. And when you take a closer look, you discover several distinct styles, each with its own secrets and requirements.

We explain the main techniques used, so you can see your jewelry in a new light:

Mosaic Inlay

Of all the inlay techniques, this is perhaps the most expressive and narrative. Mosaic inlay does not simply juxtapose stones: it composes an image. A bird in flight, a stylized face, an ancient symbol... Each motif is a fragment of history carved into the material.

It all begins with the selection of stones—turquoise, shell, black-jet, coral—cut one by one and adjusted with the precision of a goldsmith. The craftsman assembles these fragments like pieces of a puzzle until a scene emerges. Once the composition is complete, the surface is polished by hand until it becomes smooth, almost pictorial.

But here, aesthetics are never gratuitous. Mosaic Inlay is a language. A means of transmitting a memory, a worldview, a spiritual inspiration. It draws on the roots of the ancient villages of Hawikuh, where the first pieces were crafted on silver plates. Then, over time, wood replaced metal, adding a new warmth and a different texture.

This craftsmanship, passed down from generation to generation, continues to evolve. It lives. It adapts. But it always retains its intensity: that of a piece of jewelry that says something. That speaks without needing words.

A meticulous, intimate, powerful art—where every stone counts, every line tells a story.

Picture : Du volume 1 Zuni the art and the people  de Ed & Barbara bell 

Cobble Inlay 

Going against the grain of overly straight lines and perfect cuts, Cobble Inlay embraces a different language: that of controlled irregularity and respect for nature. Here, there are no templates or rigid symmetry. Each stone is chosen for what it is—in its shape, color, and texture—then adjusted by hand to fit together with the others, like pebbles in a river.

The result is organic and alive. A textured, slightly raised surface that captures light in unpredictable ways. You can feel the craftsman's touch, the patience it takes to compose this mineral puzzle without ever forcing the elements.

At Harpo, this technique becomes a medium for expressing unique pieces. Each Cobble Inlay jewel tells its own story. No two patterns are identical, no two combinations of stones are repeated. This is what makes this style so powerful: unapologetic freedom, a mineral presence, full of character.

A Cobble Inlay piece of jewelry is a fragment of earth, captured and carried in the palm of your hand. A tribute to the material in its truest form.

Channel Inlay 

Among stone inlay enthusiasts, channel inlay occupies a special place. This technique is distinguished by a very particular signature: thin silver bars, meticulously inserted between each stone. They are not there solely for structural purposes—they literally sculpt the design and set the rhythm.

Each fragment of turquoise, coral, or onyx fits into a custom-made silver channel. The result? Perfect alignment and a clean, graphic look that evokes both the traditions of the American Southwest and the bold lines of contemporary design.

This type of inlay work is particularly suited to geometric patterns: triangles, chevrons, straight lines, or sharp curves. Nothing is left to chance; every detail is carefully considered. Channel inlay requires meticulous attention to proportions—a level of craftsmanship that commands admiration.

But behind this almost mathematical precision, there is also poetry. The poetry of repeated gestures, the choice of stones, the contrasts between materials. A form of balance between ancestral craftsmanship and confident modernity.

Micro-Inlay 

Micro-Inlay is the art of the invisible, composed of tiny fragments of stone—sometimes so fine that they are invisible to the naked eye—delicately inlaid one by one into a deep jet-black background. Every movement counts, every detail becomes essential.

It is miniature inlay work, a craft requiring patience and silence as an accomplice to creation.

This ancestral technique, inherited from Native American jewelry, tells much more than a simple story: it whispers tales.

In each piece of jewelry, a landscape takes shape, a character appears, a story awakens. It is an introduction to poetry—that of stones, of the earth, and of ancient craftsmanship.

Look closer: here, a turquoise like a planet; silver shines like stars, and opal becomes a shooting star; there, a splash of coral, like a beating heart.

Each fragment, whether large or tiny, finds its place in this magnificent landscape. And in this meticulous assembly, a whole world comes to life.