Navajo

Navajo, Indians of the high plains

The Navajo (also called Dineh, meaning "people") are originally from the northern part of the United States. Their nomadic way of life led them to gradually settle in the West from the 15th century. Their current territory is immense: it extends from New Mexico to Arizona and includes a southern part of Utah.

It is while moving west that the Navajo met a sedentary tribe, the Pueblo, known to live in traditional flat-roofed houses called Adobe Houses. The two tribes, after engaging in a territorial war, ended up cohabiting in a cordial understanding and sharing traditions: growing corn, weaving blankets, and making jewelry.

Artists by nature, the Navajo knew how to borrow various know-how, adapt them and create their own style. In the 1850’s, their craft grew and gave birth to the exceptional jewelry we know today. The Navajos generally work the turquoise stone in the most natural state possible, leaving it in its original form, bigger and rougher, to make spectacular pieces.

They are also known for particular silversmithing processes:

Applique: this technique is most often identified by squash blossoms(squash is essential for Natives as it represents good crops), leaves and feathers. All these elements are chiselled in thin silver plates and then soldered to a smooth silver frame. On some jewels, the Applique technique is sometimes enhanced by turquoise or coral.

Repousse: This process can be recognized by the presence of curved elements, often in the shape of a drop or a moustache, surrounded by oxidized silver stamps. We find this craft on beautiful Native American belt buckles, but also on silver earrings, bracelets, and rings.

Sandcast and Tufacast are traditional processes used by Navajo jewellers since the beginning of time. The artist takes a mold of hardened sand (sandcast) or a volcanic stone (called Tufa) and divides it into two parts. One of these parts is carved with a pattern of his/her choice, into which he/she pours the molten silver. The second part covers this pattern and is firmly attached to the first one. Once the silver has hardened, the piece is removed from the mold, which in most cases breaks, creating a unique piece with an antique and original appearance on which the roughness of the Sandcast or Tufacast can be seen.

Some Navajo pieces have become iconics of Navajo jewelry work, such as the Conchas (Concho Belts) and Squash Blossom necklaces.

Conchas are made of a leather strap decorated with silver pieces in oval and a butterfly shapes, embossed and sometimes set with turquoises. You have surely seen these superb Native American belts in westerns, fashion shows or on Jim Morrison, who regularly and proudly wore his.

The Squash Blossom is an impressive ceremonial necklace composed of several silver pieces sometimes set with turquoises, and which central pendant is a Naja, that recalls the shape of a horseshoe.

More generally, Navajo jewelry has become emblematic and can be found throughout history, cinema and fashion. To name just a few examples, think of Johnny Halliday's rings and Lenny Kravitz adornments... all are traditional Navajo pieces available at Harpo.